Do Not Remove This Tag

Archival Poetics of Fashion Labels

Authors

  • Justė Tarvydė Author

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.37522/z22pna81

Keywords:

material politics, ready-made, critical fashion, poiesis, labeltry, performative archive

Abstract

In this article, I introduce Labeltry — a poetic and critical method / practice that reworks discarded fashion labels into micro-texts of resistance and reflection. By collecting, cutting, and reassembling these fragments of consumer language, I engage in a form of poiesis that exposes the affective, semiotic, and ideological codes woven into fashion’s surfaces. In dialogue with Barthes’ semiotics, Ahmed’s affective economies, and Latour’s material agency, my practice becomes what Athena Athanasiou calls a “minor poiesis”— a subtle yet insistent re-articulation of meaning from the underside of consumer culture. Here, the label shifts from silent tag to performative archive, unsettling the smoothness of the commodity and inviting new ways of reading identity, value, and desire.

Author Biography

  • Justė Tarvydė

    Justė Tarvydė (she/her) is an associate professor at the Vilnius Academy of Arts and a doctoral researcher in design. With a background spanning two decades as a fashion editor and stylist, her work has transitioned from visual storytelling in fashion publications to critical artistic research. Her doctoral project investigates the intersection of art and fashion, focusing on the nexus of text and texture, and conceptualizes fashion artefacts as relics of the social body. Through methods of deconstruction, fragmentation, assemblage, and the ready-made, she explores how garments may be reactivated as carriers of memory, identity, and cultural residue.

Labeltry archive.

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Published

2025-12-11